AfroTravel

Like the slow undressing of a woman, the forest around the Baka is slowly shedding itself from existence due to logging, encroachment and aggressive hunting. Where once the dappled light of bright sun, and peeping blue sky sliced its way between the leaves, there are now glaring chunks in the overhead gallery of trees as if a giant enemy of nature took a bite out of her. On a typical day the sun rises to the sound of women singing, keening and yodeling as they wend their way to the river to fish. Fish is one of the staples of the Baka diet. These days, with climate change, the forests are hotter, the air is steamy with humidity and the Baka can feel it. River depths have reduced, fish are not as plentiful. The Baka women use a "damn" strategy to fish. Using their hands, they scoop and move the thick chocolate coloured mud from the bottom of the stream to make a damn. Water accumulates on one side of the damn, leaving the fish stranded on the shallow side. Sometimes, the Baka pour a mild toxin made from the pulp and sap of plants into the rivers and streams which causes the fish to suffocate or become paralyzed. The fish float to the surface down stream. The short-acting toxin is harmless to people and leaves the water system within a short time. Along with fish, the Baka use their age-old tradition of gathering to harvest vegetables, yams and other root foods to prepare the meal for the returning men.

"….Like the slow undressing of a woman, the forest around the Baka is slowly shedding itself from existence due to logging, encroachment and aggressive hunting. …"


Meanwhile, the other side of the hunter-gatherer equation has spent most of the prior evening scraping tree bark and mixing highly effective toxins to cover the end of their spears, arrows and blow darts. The Baka have perfected the art of trap hunting Antelope, bush rats, porcupine and other large rodents using complex, sensitive trip mechanisms made of twigs, leaves and plant fibers. They change their methods according to their environment and their choice of game. Long ago, there was abundant food for everyone. The Baka do not have a tradition of ownership or property. Food and forests do not "belong" to anyone, they belong to everyone. Moving through the thick undergrowth and camouflaging amongst the trees, the Baka are skilled at blending into the forest. Dried, caked earth on their limbs helps them to become one with the leaves and surrounding plants. They patiently stare up into the trees, listening attentively to the sacred song of the hunt…the birds screeching, monkeys calling to each other, the distant sounds of their families, the rustle of small creeping animals and the silent anticipation in the air. Pausing tentatively, they eye each other and wait. The shadows suddenly shift and a small monkey comes into view. One of the Baka men tilts his head and lifts his bamboo pole to his mouth. It is loaded with a poisoned dart. He takes aim and in one powerful puff sends the dart on a collision course with the monkey. Paralysis followed by a swift death. As the monkey tumbles from the treetops, it bounces from branch to branch breaking up the light and scattering shadows in a cast of triumph upon the faces of the hunters. Monkey is not their only meat option. Sometimes, the men will take down a grown elephant together. This is a feat of patience and skill. Bigger game is getting harder to find. On days when their efforts prove fruitless, they will send the younger boys to collect fat caterpillar grubs, or they will smoke out a termite hill and collect the termites. Both are an excellent source of protein. Being small has an advantage – they don't need as much food to live. But today, everyone will eat his or her fill. As if by telepathy, the women recommit to their singing as they light the fires and start to prepare for the meal. The men pick the fallen monkey up by the tail and return to their huts. They don't understand how one or two people can hunt and kill for fun. Sometimes, the outsiders kill more than 3 months worth of meat in one hunt. Food is becoming scarce. The villagers are busy building cooking fires in front of their huts which are low-slung branch-framed structures covered in large palm fronds and banana leaves. Some semi-sedentary village huts are made of hand molded clay and mud. The children play and run around their mothers who are pounding manioc in hand carved mortars with pestles. They pour palm oil into the mixture, magically turning the food from pale white to intense orange. The smell of wood is becoming pungent now. Further along the row of huts, a young girl tears and grinds leafy vegetables whilst a boy watches an iron pot of bubbling water for his mother. They know the hunters will soon be back. They will singe the hair from the monkey, cut it up and stew it for the afternoon and evening meals.

Baka

"….Food is becoming scarce. In recent times, the Baka have expressed their fear and concern about their changing home and the scarcity of food. They have seen their Bantu neighbors and pale strangers coming to hunt…."


In recent times, the Baka have expressed their fear and concern about their changing home and the scarcity of food. They have seen their Bantu neighbors and pale strangers coming to hunt. During these times, the Bantus slip into the embrace of the forest, deep in its core and wait in the stillness – watching and waiting to see what will happen. They have learnt how easy it is to be dragged unwillingly into service for the strangers who rely on their hunting prowess and pay them as little as 25 cents for a days back breaking work, tracking and carrying hunting equipment and meat. The sun casts playful shapes onto the faces of the adults who are sitting around resting or trimming the Marantaceae leaves that they use to build their shelters. The Baka are skilled at arts and crafts. They weave mats and baskets of green and black from various plant fibers. Their baskets range in shape from shallow and wide, long and conical, to large and broad, and designed to be supported by a strap wrapped around the forehead. Sometimes, some of the Baka groups venture out of the forest and sell their handicrafts at local villages in exchange for metal goods and clothing. Their sense of value for currency is unsophisticated and often works against them.

Besides handicrafts, the Baka also sell "bush meats" in the town markets. Occasionally, people consult them for their expertise in healing, and herbal remedies. No one knows how the Baka came by these talents but they are known for their effectiveness and their knowledge is highly prized. On their way back from town, they stop to collect fruits, berries and a handful of mushrooms. The Baka diet also includes nuts and honey collected directly from beehives high up in the upper branches of trees. The men use their hand made tools to mark notches in the tree trunk. One of the younger nimble boys uses the notches to gain foot and hand holds. He climbs up the tree. Everyone is looking up at him, joking and jeering about the angry bees! The little children can barely contain themselves as they wait for the sweet sticky treat. Using a handful of smoking leaves, they drug the bees into lethargy and cause them to become immobile. Then, with what can only be termed as insanely brave, the young boy reaches into the hive and pulls a golden honeycomb out with his fingers. He throws it down to the waiting crowd who share it immediately. The yellow treat is delicious! They cheer for him and help him down.

"….These are a people who have wed their lives to the fate of the forest and changing of the seasons. As they lay down to sleep, they pray that Jengi will protect them and save the forests bounty for them for a little longer…."


Time to complete the journey home…
Night gathers upon the little village. Children are scooped up and washed clean of the red dust. The sticky honey is cleansed from hair and faces using scrubbing sponges made from shredded dried vines. The women wrap themselves in loincloths and pull babies to their breasts for a final feed. Children are especially prized amongst the Baka due to the unusually high mortality rate amongst infants. Talk turns to prayer as they reflect on the day and give thanks to their animistic forest spirit, Jengi. More music follows stories and talk. The Baka love music and use it to celebrate every important event – marriages, birth, funerals and death ceremonies. They make hand-made harps, zithers, rattles and drums to accompany their music.

AfroTravel

These are a people who have wed their lives to the fate of the forest and changing of the seasons. Despite their stature, they are huge of heart, faith, courage and love. The forest has the biggest impact on their life and their respect and gratitude to it is immeasurable. As they lay down to sleep, they pray that Jengi will protect them and save the forests bounty for them for a little longer.


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